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Customs & Habits

The month of December is in Curacao, as in most other countries, a very special one. Not only because people are sensitive to the approach of the year's end, but also because in this month there are holidays especially cherished by people. Far from pretending to present a scientifically perfect explanation of our traditions, I shall only touch upon the most important ones, highlight them, to focus on the good feelings they have instilled in us. In doing so, I hope they may inspire us in our every-day lives, especially in these times of cool, business-like attitudes, pressure, and sometimes desperation; in which so much of the real joy of living threateans to get lost, much to our detriment.

St. Nicholas' Day:
The first important event in the month of December is the celebration of St. Nicholas' (Day) on the 6th of December. This benevolent and lovable bishop lived about A.D. 300. He was known for his generous gifts to the poor and the children. St. Nicholas is the patron saint of children; this quality has been adapted to that of gift-bringer. For centuries St. Nicholas has been able to keep his schedule and to visit with us every year. What is more, he keeps his economic house in order, year after year, something for which he is probably envied by airlines and economists all over the world. I remember very well how, as children, we wondered if St. Nicholas would really come so that we could be sure to find gifts in our shoes, under our beds, or scattered around in the house, when we would wake up the following morning. There was always some fear that he might just not make it, but there were always the happy tension and wonderful expectations, which were somehow always fulfilled. After so many years I can still savour the joy, a very personal joy, when in my imagination I relive those days. There have been changes. We now have scheduled flights with jet planes flying faster than the speed of sound. Nowadays, St. Nicholas makes his "joyeuse entrée" two weeks ahead of his scheduled appearance on the 6th, disembarking right in the middle of the crowd in the heart of town, accompanied by his two loyal servants "Zwarte Piet" and "Sjaak Sjoerd".

Sinterklaas

The tradition of St. Nicholas' Day was adopted from the Dutch, but St. Nicholas was a Spaniard and lived in Spain. This, of course, makes absolutely no difference to all those children - and adults too - who throng by the thousands to welcome him with renewed enthusiasm. And, maybe I am, in a way, among those children around that date. Now not as a receiver of gifts, but rather as one enjoying the joy of giving. After the Saint Nicholas' Day celebration (festivities), there is a short period of relaxation and reflection, which changes into frantic activity two weeks before the 25th of December.

Christmas
The name "Christmas" did not come into use until the eleventh century. It orginated from the Old English Cristes maesse or "Christ mass". Most Christians observe Christmas on December 25th, but the actual date of Infant Jesus' birth is unknown. Even the time of year is uncertain. The Christmas season lasts three weeks. For the

Christians Christmas is the most significant day of the year. For the man in the street it is the culmination of a period of intense preparation. Dwellings undergo a major overhaul, inside and out. Roofs are repaired, houses are repainted , curtains renewed and furniture revarnished or repainted. This is the time that calls for a general sprucing up. The floor is recovered with brand new linoleum. The whole neighbourhood smells of fresh paint, varnish and newness. A combination of smells that evoke warm memories of my childhood, old acquaintances, neighbours and friends of yesteryear. Liquor and other beverages are abundantly stocked weeks before and of course quality is checked in advance with a "few" trial sips. The traditional "Ham" must be bought which entails some scurrying around to find the desired size, price and quality. All this is evident in the streets and shops all over the island. Buses are overcrowded and cope with the traffic with difficulty. The rush extends to the buying of new clothes and other personal items for the whole family. The man in the street wants Christmas to find him reborn, dressed re-dressed in new clothes and in a renewed environment.

Christmas

Formerly, as far as possible, in each home a "Pesebre" (Nativity Scene) was installed, built to the best of the artistic feelings of the family. Children used to go from house to house, visiting their acquaintances to look at the sets and assess the differences, which sometimes may have led to much comment and discussion among them, for days. I have no explanations for the cause, but the last four to five decades I have seen the displacement of nativity sets by the Christmas tree (Note: the Christmas tree originated in Germany). It should be noted that Santa Claus, as a North American institution, has not yet been generally accepted here in Curacao. Only a few honour this tradition. The sending of Seasons' Greetings (Note: Christmas cards date back to the middle of the 19th century.) The first Christmas card was drawn in 1842 by an Englishman named William Egly. Friends as well as the giving of Christmas gifts are now widely accepted customs in Curacao, as they are any part of the world. The song "I am dreaming of a White Christmas" (written by Irving Berlin in 1942 is very much played in the week before Christmas and, mind you, on an island with a temperature of about 85 degrees during the Christmas season.

Misa di Aurora
I remember the "Misa di Aurora" (Daybreak Masses) at 5 o'clock every morning during the 9 days (Novena) preceding Christmas, marking the beginning of the Christmas season. For a while attendance at these masses slackened, but at present the churches are full again for these early masses, because they are now being broadcast by a local radio station. In former days the young men were eager to attend these services, not so much because of their religious conviction, but rather due to their keen interest in meeting the young ladies after mass in hope of catching and returning a friendly smile. Still very much alive in my memory are the furtive glances, the vibrant heart beats, the special smell of the morning, the soft cool breeze and the rosy sky of the dawning morning.

Bispu di Pasku (Christmas Eve)
Slowly but surely "Bispu di Pasku" (Christmas Eve) has meanwhile arrived. By then the activities have reached stampede proportions. The "botikanan" (drugstores) are invaded by customers who whish to buy the famous "Awa di laba kas" (the indispensable house cleaning concoction). It is prepared by pharmacists according to old formulas and is mixed at home by the housewives with the water that they will use to scrub the floors, enveloping the house in an agreeable scent. The scrubbing of the floor with this concotion constitutes a kind of a ritual to chase away disharmony and bring in peace. Only then can the housewife assisted by members of the family put the finishing touches to the house and can curtains and or rugs be installed. Throughout the day there is hectic running in and out of shops by people overloaded with packages. The streets are filled with multilingual Christmas music wafting from the stores and music and record shops, adding to the mood, typical of Yuletide. The bars are full of men, some starting their celebration early and arriving home in high spirits and those that "ta pone kurpa na prim" which means taking sufficient liquor to get into the right mood for the festive occasion.

I remember some of our old acquaintances and neighbours, full-grown and otherwise very serious persons, singing "Silent Night" once in the proper mood (Note: Silent Night dates back to 1818 Father Mohr a village priest in the Austrian Tyrol wrote the poem. The words came to him in the stillness of a winter night with the Christmas star shining on the snow. The melody for this much-loved hymn was written by his Church organist Franz Gruber) followed by a complete reportoire in Dutch, Spanish and Papiamento (local vernacular) ranging from school songs, love themes, to nursery rhymes. Nightfall sees the last customers carrying home the indispensables. On some street corners and in front of certain shops "Aguinaldos" music groups (Latin American Christmas Carols, which is a cultural import from Venezuela) are belting out their music at top volume, watched by huge crowds gathered around them, and who get under their spell and who can hardly fail to attend the rhythmical renditions.

"Noche Buena" (The Good Night, a late Christmas Eve celebration)
Another more succesful and much older import from Latin America is the "Noche Buena" (a late Christmas Eve celebration.) The late copious dinner is had in the family circle with close friends, with abundant liquor and food, of which the "Ham" and the "Ayaka" (a kind of Famales, consisting of chicken and pork in a a corn paste, wrapped in banana leaves) are the "pièces de résistance" (the most traditional dishes. Others hasten to the different churches which are packed for the "Misa del Gallo" (Lit. The Mass of the Cock, Midnight Christmas Mass). Formerly when the Midnight Mass was not so much in vogue, people used to go to the "Misa di Marduga" (Dawn Mass) at 5 o'clock, where you could see the most varied array of Christmas finery. After the mass it was customary in former times for the children to visit their Godparents. Neighbours are accustomed to dropping in to exchange good wishes and have a Christmas drink, together with a litle snack of ham or an "ayaka". Many families on Christmas Day, display all their culinary skills, having prepared well in advance the most exquisite native delicacies to make sure they can proudly cater to their guests. Those who can afford it have "Keshi Yená" (stuffed Edam Cheese) and "Kalakuna Yená" (Stuffed turkey) on their menus. In some families dancing parties are organized on Christmas Day in the evening hours. The next day "Dos dia di Pasku" (Lit. 2nd Christmas Day or Boxing Day) the celebrations are continued.

"Bispu di Anja Nobo" (New Years' Eve)
After the 26th, the festive mood is continued untill "Bispu di Anja Nobo" (Lit. New Years's Eve or St. Sylvester Day). Meanwhile, the "Tambú" Season has started. The "tambú" is played, sung and danced all over the island.There was a time that it was prohibited. Nowadays, however, it has recovered its rightful place in our national folklore. In the satirical songs sung at the "tambú", persons, situations and happenings (chronique scandaleuse)are criticized, praised or ridiculed. However, this is not the main purpose of the "tambú". It is rather the opportunity for participants to transport themselves into a frensy of dancing, singing, handclapping, foot stamping, while wildly swinging their hips. For New Year's celebration the menu is complemented by "Karni sá" (corned beef or beef in brine), "Pekelé" (herring marinated in vinegar and red onions) "Salmou di barí" (brined salmon) eaten with "Kònkòmber Pika" (hot peppered cucumbers). All this highly seasoned food combined with the hot "Sòpi di mondongo" (hot peppered tripe chowder) forms a substantial base to cope with the numerous toasts to the New Year.The "Sult" (marrinated pig's head and ears) is omnipresent in all homes. In the early evening another ritual takes place in many homes. Around 10 o'clock "Fuku i mal hairu" (jinx and potential evils) of the past year that might be in the house are chased by "Sensiamentu" (the burning of incense).The "Sensia" (incense) consists of 7 kinds of herbs, with onion and garlic added sometimes. The material is lit on a tin tray with charcoal and taken through every room of the house. The members of the family stand around the smoking incense. Some even jump over the burning incense to make sure that they rid themselves of bad luck. Those families who have a gold coin will pass it from hand to hand, in order to invoke good luck in the attainment of wealth.

Obispu Another New Year's Eve activity is the sweeping of the house all the way through to the front door. Once outside, the house wife re-enters her house, walking backwards, to fool any evil spirit that might be planning to follow her back into the house.Some people still practice the custom of taking a thorough cleansing bath with different herbs, in order to rid themselves of bad luck and afterwards they put on a new set of clothes, as yet untouched by the human body, so as to start the year in an immaculate condition. The brighter the colours of the dress the better and the merrier. It seems that yellow is the luck- bringing colour "par excellence". Most members of the family stay together until "Tiru tira" (Lit.: the canon is fired from Fort Amsterdam in Willemstad on the stroke of 12).(Note: The custom of firing a canon shot from the walls of Fort Amsterdam dates back to 1722. In 1807 the shot was not fired, as the island was conquered on January 1st by the British admiral Sir Charles Brisbane. Otherwise this was continued untill 19. Others take a walk to be totally alone when the New Year starts. Some families drive around in their cars so that the New Year will find them together, but unencumbered. Some go to the sea shore and take a dip in the sea. After getting out they put on new clothes, leaving the old ones containing the "fuku" (jinx) behind. A very respectful custom calls back all grown children from parties so as to be in the family circle at the start of the New Year, in order to receive the parents' blessing. After the toast with the members of the family the young people may leave again to continue their merry-making.

Others again used to walk in large numbers to the square, in front of the Holy Family Church at San Mateo to receive the blessing "Urbi et Insulae" of the Bishop, that is from 1969 to 1975. From 1860 till 1969 this took place on "Awasá" (Brion Plaza) in front of the Bishop's mansion. The ceremony is broadcast by the local radio stations. In 1976 at the request of "de Gezaghebber" (the Mayor of the Island) to the Bishop the traditional blessing ceremony, which started in 1740 took place once more at Plaza Brion. There are many people who eagerly seek out a person who has been succesful in life and business to be the first one to greet them on New Year, hoping that some of their good luck will rub off on them. Even before New Years's Eve, especially children start lighting "Vuurwerk" (fireworks). Businessmen especially those of the big shops and offices, at the closing of their shops and offices before midday fire off "Pagaras". (barrages of fireworks) to chase away bad luck.The Chinese colony on the island most of them importers of fireworks light huge quantities. As midnight approaches the lighting of fireworks increases in volume and intensity. Adults indulge actively in the process. At midnight hell breaks loose to such an extent that pyrotechnicians could be jealous of. The noise of fireworks is ear-splitting. All ships in port blow their whistless, for 5 to 10 minutes.

Everybody in their homes, outside in the cars, in the streets, hugs, embraces and wishes each other the very best for the New Year. Dancing parties go on until the wee hours. In more conservative circles family, relatives, neighbours and acquaintances celebrate New Year in an intimate atmoshpere. In the outskirts the "tambú" goes on wildly and in the more secluded places outside the city it gives on, all through the night and early morning.The country-side reverberates the hard driving, unevenly syncopated sounds of the "tambú". After the preparatory drinks of the day, hardly anybody can resist its tantalizing rhythm and without realizing it, their feet leave the ground: they are dancing............ A new tradition is the selection by the radio stations of the best Song of the Year (out of the Top Hundred). Radio Station Z-86 makes the announcement of the winning song at midnight.

As Christmas is a festivity of lights and many people celebrate St. Lucia or St. Lucy's Day on December 13th (Lux in latin is light) in their homes in the company of relatives, friend and neighbours. The local power plant "Kodela" initiated in the last decades a contest to animate the people and the business community to illuminate their homes and buildings. in the atmosphere of the Christmas Season (ending on the Twelfth Night) and the Year's end. Prizes are granted for those homes and buildings which are beautifully decorated and illuminated. This new custom has created a new dimension and an added attraction to the celebrations in the month of December.

The month of December brings back to me all these events, customs, habits and tradition. Fond memories that bring me renewed Happiness, Strength, Hope and Inspirations to face the New Year.